Monthly Archives: July 2014

Boy/girl, boy/girl

MSGM menswear catwalk

MSGM menswear S/S 15

Fashion’s love of androgyny and fluid gender have taken a more practical step forward, with the increasing appearance of womenswear on menswear catwalks, and vice versa.

Y-3 catwalk menswear

Y-3 menswear S/S 15

At the recent menswear S/S 15 shows, collections from JW Anderson (who loves a bit of boy/girl fashion) to Givenchy’s delicate florals, Marc Jacobs’ dreamy pinks and Dries Van Noten’s balletic flourishes all offered something for the girls as well as the targeted boys.

Meanwhile, menswear shows from designers as diverse as Prada, Y-3, MSGM, Daks and Katie Eary also featured women on the catwalk.

Prada catwalk menswear

Prada menswear S/S 15

In an interview with The Telegraph, Miuccia Prada gave an insight into how some designers are approaching their men’s and women’s collections:

“I am introducing more and more women [in menswear]. Because I think the combination is more real. It is more today. Otherwise it looks like we are in classes, in the time of my grandfather, women divided from men. The shows divided are so unreal and I think that it is when you put them together you get a sense of what is meaningful and real…Basically I think to people, not to gender.”

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Beautiful Games


Still from Mountain by David OReilly

The latest gaming innovations are increasingly sophisticated and fantastical. A mysterious, floating, rotating mountain is the strangely beautiful new game from David O’Reilly, the digital artist who created the animations for Her. As far as gaming goes, Mountain is hardly high-octane – O’reilly calls it a “relax-em-up” – but it’s absorbing all the same. The mountain, which is generated according to the player’s drawn responses to a couple of questions, is better described as an “ambient companion”.

It continues to slowly turn in the background while you’re working away on your computer (or smartphone), but changes gradually – and beautifully – over time, as weather, wildlife and marooned objects (meteors, sailboats, giant padlocks) change its landscape.


HomeMake by Cory Seeger and Matthew Conway

The urban dreamscapes of HomeMake were created to allow players to explore architecture. Designed by two architecture students, players complete traditional gaming elements like puzzles and quests, but the landscape is defined by the player and constantly evolves as a result. According to makers Cory Seeger and Matthew Conway: “The main gameplay mechanic is the character swap, a mind transfer between characters. Each character has a unique perception and platforming technique connected to the world, creating a different exploration experience with each character.” The game has just been successfully funded on Kickstarter and is in development for iOS, Windows and Linux.

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The path not taken

Automated systems pretty much run our lives at this point, removing much of the need  – and the ability – to choose. They may make our lives easier, but are we increasingly offshoring our own choices? Algorithms define our Google searches, our Amazon purchases and the ads we see online, as well as things in the real world: they can create museum displays, design products and publish newspapers. They’re very clever, sure. But they increasingly define our interactions with, and understanding of, the world.


Chairs designed by algorithm, by Autodesk

Amazon’s algorithm notices that I bought some children’s books, and then endlessly suggests kids’ products and parenting stuff as a result, in spite of the fact that they were a one-off purchase. Netflix notes that I watched some superhero film, then endlessly brings up all kinds of crappy sci-fi, in spite of the fact that the superhero film was a hungover choice that i’d be unlikely to make again. The basic premise of each of these services – If you liked that, you’ll like this –  funnels my choices into an increasingly narrow focus.

TV channels and movie studios are just as bad – if that one film was popular, lets make a bunch of sequels and prequels. If people watched that crime show, let’s make loads more like it.  What about surprise, choice, the shock of the new? And of course FOMO – what are we missing out on if we just follow the route created for us?


Scene from the rejected pilot for Wonder Woman

A handful of innovators are looking to escape from the world of automated choices and explore the path not taken. Streaming service Screenhits is launching a Pilot Showcase, which aims to give airtime to TV shows that were rejected by studio executives. The site will offer 50 pilot shows for streaming for six months,allowing show-makers to recoup their costs, but also allowing advertisers and other studios to take on the projects and develop them into whole series.

Viewers can watch the shows for free, supported by advertising, and can pre-order any pilots that end up getting made. Shows that have been closed down by networks – such as Arrested Development and Community – have been revitalised online, so perhaps this service can lead viewers to discover new and interesting content that they actually want to support, rather than just absorbing the choices made for them.

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Death of the mallrat


Photography by Seph Lawless

While it may seem unlikely on a packed Saturday at Westfield, the communal shopping experience of malls – going “into town” on a Saturday to find a going-out dress or new bedlinen, queueing for a purchase, cramming into communal changing rooms and battling crowds at sale time – is on its way out.With it, the icons of youthful commercialism, the Mallrats, will be a thing of the past too, as many teens’ first experience of shopping-as-pastime will be online, not in store. In the US, online shopping is taking 6% of malls’ trade, while in the UK, there’s a higher percentage of empty units in shopping centres (16%) than in high streets (9.6%).

But it’s not just the internet that is preventing people from venturing to these vast retail hubs – it’s also the effort and the cost. Why pay out for a day trip to fill your car or your arms at retail parks and mega-malls, when you can browse online stores from the comfort of your home, and get your goods delivered for free. Convenience also plays a major part, with consumers considering themselves too busy to spend time journeying to, and then traipsing around, an out-of-town shopping centre. Local shops, online stores and m-commerce offer much more appealing options for the young, super-busy, urban shopper.

Dying mall culture has already affected the fortunes of key teen brands such as Abercrombie & Fitch and Aeropostale, which are now struggling to keep up with teens’ changing shopping attitudes. Long trading on their destination stores, their in-store experience (Abercrombie’s being the most notorious), and the cool factor of their wearing their branded tees and sweats (and, of course, carrying their bags around the mall), these mall staples are losing their lustre. Instead of buying these logo’d clothes, teens are funnelling their spending into their mobile devices. As a result, phones and tablets become their gateway to shopping experiences, keeping them away from the mall – and mall brands.


Photography by Seph Lawless

The Retail Gazette has warned that for UK malls and retail parks, “there is a danger that larger spaces will turn into empty buildings, with only tumbleweed passing through them”. In the US, this is already happening, as shown in photographer Seph Lawless‘s eerie new book, Black Friday: Death Of The American MallThe book documents the deserted landscape of the once-bustling Rolling Acres Mall in Ohio, which had gradually fallen into disuse and disrepair. While the mall closed in 2008, some retailers attempted to keep standalone stores going until 2013, but eventually gave up the ghost, leaving these crumbling monuments to our once-beloved mall culture.

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